by Marene Gustin
Between rising rents inside the Loop and the flooding and loss of income from Hurricane Harvey, Houston lost quite a few restaurants in 2017. But the hurricane also showed what kind of spirit the Houston food industry has as many restaurants opened their doors to feed first responders and evacuees for free while others took their meals on the road serving hot food at shelters and outdoor staging sites for first responders and later debris and recovery teams. We’re talking tens of thousands of meals served for free.
There were also fundraisers for kitchen and front of house staff who lost homes, cars and wages for days, weeks and sometimes even months, like the Southern Smoke Foundation that raised $501,000 for 139 industry workers. But as the year wound down, many restaurants returned to normal, or a new normal, and Houston even welcomed a few new favorites post-Harvey.
EMMALINE
dineemmaline.com
From restaurateur Sam Governale, comes this charming Montrose neighborhood eatery that boasts picture perfect patios, a wonderful terrace and divine European-inspired American fare by chef Dimitri Voutsianas. Hurricane Harvey delayed the December opening at the former Teala’s spot, but the eleventh-hour entrance lets Emmaline rank as one of the best new restaurants of 2017.
Pop in for lunch, dinner, afternoon tea or weekend brunch and you won’t be disappointed. Pizzas, pastas, salads and sandwiches — made mostly with fresh, local ingredients — co-exist with hearty entrées like a delicious lemony roasted chicken or an omelette stuffed with pancetta, goat cheese, asparagus and wild mushrooms that comes with a side the chef’s special fries.
Beer and wine are served along with classic cocktails and the dessert menu is decadent but one standout is the toasted coconut so-called Backyard Wedding Cake.
NANCY’S HUSTLE
nancyshustle.com
Also a December baby, Nancy’s Hustle has a name that gives a nod to a diner in Mad Max, but a menu that mixes European and American flavors. It’s as eclectic as the décor here where a polished concrete floor vies with bar made from a bowling lane.
It’s dinner only at this EaDo spot but that’s okay as you’ll need some sleep after eating here. Start with the housemade bread and butter with radishes and flake salt. The lamb tartare with green olives is the next logical choice or maybe the lip-smacking chicken liver mousse. There’s a burger on a brioche English muffin that is a standout as well as a roasted snapper and a succulent leg of rabbit confit and bacon-wrapped rabbit loin. Don’t forget the full bar and the sweet items like the sweet and slightly savory Parmesan cheesecake drenched in black pepper honey.
MAISON PUCHA BISTRO
maisonpucha.com
In late November chef Manuel Pucha, formerly of La Table, opened his own French bistro in the Heights. Maison Pucha Bistro also includes Pucha’s brothers: Victor, a pastry chef, and Christina, a sommelier. Open for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch, the menu features such French classics as salad Niçoise with Texas Gulf Coast yellowfin tuna, steak frites featuring Wagyu hanger steak and a true coq au vin. Brunch offers salads, soups and quiches to die for and Victor dishes up a sinful chocolate cake and delicate profiteroles topped with housemade vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce.
Do start your meal with the bouillabaisse with broth poured tableside or the Akaushi beef tartare. There are already a few nods to the brothers homeland of Ecuador, such as the chocolate and strong coffee but expect more to come as the restaurant develops. But already it is a fine addition to the Heights blooming dining scene.
GOODE CO. KITCHEN & CANTINA
kitchenandcantina.com
Houston’s iconic Goode Co. opened its first new concept last year, Kitchen & Cantina, in The Woodlands, and, just three months later in December, a second location opened in Memorial City. The décor is a little more vibrant than the other concepts in town. Here the brick walls are white washed, the tables are of 100-year-old reclaimed wood and there are comfy leather chairs and twinkling Mexican light fixtures.
The food is also sort of a combination of the other restaurants in the company: Tex-Mex and fresh Gulf seafood. Expect delicious made-to-order guacamole, nachos and platters of mesquite-grilled fajitas. And there are also grilled Texas quail served up with charra beans as well as catches like Redfish on the half shell and grilled red snapper. The tequila flows freely here but the spot is also kid friendly, with a special menu for the little ones and some desserts including Blue Bell ice cream and the company’s famous Brazos Bottom pecan pie.
GOODNIGHT CHARLIE’S
goodnightcharlies.com
And now for something completely different, Goodnight Charlie’s, opened in late December, brings back boot scootin’ to the InnerLoop. No, it’s not Blanco’s, nothing ever could be, but this new Montrose area honky tonk has live music, dancing, strong drinks and Texas beers as well as some excellent tacos and Tex-Mex.
The name is a nod to legendary Panhandle cattle rancher Charles Goodnight and sits in a newly built barn-like structure right behind the Buffalo Exchange off Westheimer Road. Two-step your way on over here and enjoy a shot of Whiskey and an elote, the traditional Mexican street corn on a cob dressed with crema, cotija, Old Bay seasoning and lime. There are nachos and chicken fried steak with queso plus the aforementioned tacos: spicy fried chicken, pork, grilled Gulf Coast fish and a chicken mole taco to tweak your taste buds.
There’s also a five leches funnel cake for your sweet tooth and the late night menu includes breakfast tacos to fuel your dancing fun and soak up some of the bar drinks.
twitter: @marenegustin